When I took the engine out using the book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" it was very simple which could be done in a day. One hint that someone mentioned was use a motorcycle jack to drop the engine. It really helped! Also, I had to support the transmission because of the independent rear suspension (IRS). I took the two wheels off from the back and placed them underneath the transmission with a 2x4 on top of the tires.
I ordered Kit #3 from e-volks.com and have, so far, been satisfied with what was delivered, although like they warned, it will take several weeks to get everything (mine was 6-7+ weeks).
The shaft coupler and key go on very, very tight to the electric motor shaft. I did have to "tap" the coupler on. Once its on, tighten the shaft coupler screw.
The adapter plate goes on only one way on the transmission as the bolt holes for the transmission will not match 3 out of 4 ways. :) The adapter plate goes on the electric motor any which way, so be careful and get the adapter plate lined up on the transmission first, before you mount the motor so you don't have to unbolt the motor later to rotate it to get the wire mounts on top. A hint from the e-volks people about bolting on the adapter plate to the motor: "We recommend a 3/8 inch thread by 3/4 inch long [bolt]. Remember it is beneficial to use a lock washer or lock–tige (vile of superglue type adhesive)."
The motor mount is just a metal bar that bolts on to the old motor mount points and to the back of the motor. I will test how well this holds up later.
For the controller and batteries and other wired stuff, the back seat has been removed. This is for a number of reasons, but they are, in no particular order:
1. Weight distribution toward the center of the car, rather than scattered which helps during corners and to stop the car from doing wheelies.
2. Shorter wiring distance between batteries (also less work :).
3. The most difficult place to get to is inside the car. Everywhere else is accessible from the outside. Copper theft is rampant, and electronics is as well and the controller looks like a car stereo amp. This way, they'd have to remove a lot of batteries to get to anything. I think its better, although I would like a five seater, but this is a testbed car anyhow. "Out of sight, out of mind."
4. There are more reasons I can't think of. This works though.
Anyhow, some self-tapping metal screws did the trick for screwing in the controller, shunt and stuff. More pictures once everything is wired.
Six batteries where the back seat was, and four batteries right above the rear axel on the rear boot. This allows for the rear hatch and engine bay hatch to open while keeping everything separate.
Anyway, I hope this helps some.
Noisome
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Hey there.
This is my first blog entry on this site, and my first blog entry, period, so please forgive me if anything seems odd. After asking for advice from Ken Parsons I put up this blog to record the events that took place and will take place regarding my 1972 VW Squareback conversion to electric.
With the gas prices shooting from $2.75 to nearly $4.00 in less than a year, I knew it was time for a different kind of motorized vehicle. So I began searching for ideas and, of course, the electric car came into the picture. After going to the site http://www.e-volks.com I thought it might be great to convert one of these VW bad boys!
I picked up my VW from craigslist for $700 (although now I know about http://thesamba.com) which probably wasn't worth it but it was the right color. :) It is a 1972-3 Orange Volkswagen Squareback that originally had a ICE (internal combustion engine).
So right now, I'm in the middle of the conversion and I will keep this updated with all of the information I know to give.
You all take care,
Noisome
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